Using a Hotplate – What you need to know.

Thank you for purchasing one of our Gunning Hotplates from us.

Here are the instructions for using your hotplate but if you need any help, please do not hesitate to get in touch with us.

The Heat

Hotplate Printmaking

Our printmaking hotplates have a range between 0 and 180°C and are set using a digital thermostat.

The best place to put your hotplate is in an extraction unit or small room so that there are no drafts, especially if you are wanting to work above 150°C. But if you do not have either of the above, they work very well in an open studio (health and safety permitting). 

A wire wound silicone heat mat is adhered directly to either the 10mm thick Aluminium top (this comes as standard) or the mild steel (optional and is magnetic) or the stainless steel (optional). Because the heat matt is stuck directly onto the underside of the metal it gives 100% uniformity across the heated surface.

All around the heated area of the hotplate surface, there is an additional 62mm giving you more room to work. This area surrounding the heated surface is not directly heated up but will warm when your hotplate is in use. If you use your hotplate at a high temperature this might become very hot.

The Aluminium

Our standard top for the hotplates is 10mm thick aluminium which is lacquered. We have chosen this material because it has the best longevity and conducts the heat quickly.

You can upgrade to steel top if you would prefer, this can be mild steel if you would like it to be magnetic or stainless steel if you would prefer (this is not magnetic) These metals are a lot heavier and cost more so there are additional charges for having these metals.

The frame

We have fabricated and powder-coated the stand so that it will wipe clean easily and is hard-wearing. It has plastic feet so that it can sit on your work surface comfortably. 

Cleaning 

Printmaking Hotplate

Your aluminium is lacquered with clear metal lacquer, but because of what it is used for, it will inevitably get dirty over time. If you would like to keep it clean, we suggest using printmakers cleaner or a non-toxic cleaner so that it does not break the lacquer down. If you use white spirit or any toxic liquid on the hotplate surface, the lacquer will break down and your aluminium will stain over time. To keep the aluminium as clean as you can clean off every 6 months and re-lacquer with a clear metal lacquer.  If you have a stainless-steel top or mild steel top these have also been lacquered to protect the metal, the stainless steel will not rust but will stain whereas the mild steel will rust eventually if you are using toxic cleaners on the surface of the hotplate. To keep them as clean as you can clean off every 6 months and re-lacquer with clear metal lacquer 

For information only…If you are using toxic materials on your hotplate and you have an open-access public studio you should have your hotplate in an extractor unit.

All our hotplates are made so that you can just plug them in and not worry about using up lots of power. 

To set your Temperature follow these Instructions:

Your heater has a digital thermostat for accurate control and accurate temperature feedback. This gives you a direct display of the heater operating temperature with setpoint adjustability within the pre-programmed range. Additionally, the thermostat has a menu function that allows you to navigate through the settings and adjust them to better suit your printmaking needs.

• Press the power button to turn the hotplate on.
• Press and hold the power button to enter standby mode.
• Using the arrow buttons will allow you to set the temperature.
• Hold the menu button to access the menu options, which will allow you to set the timer/hysteresis/ Offset /and Unit Options
• Whist on the menu screen clicking the menu button again will allow you to navigate through the options.
• Using the arrow keys whilst on the menu screen, will allow you to adjust the selected setting

Here are some suggested temperatures.

• 20°C – Gently drying off plaster, glue, polish, and carborundum on your collagraph plates / heating your Lino plates up so it’s easier to cut into
• 30°C – Inking up your plate with weak viscus ink/heating your plate up to prepare for photo emulsion or image on
• 40°C – Inking up your plate with strong viscus ink
• 60°C – Drying your plate off after cleaning and in-between tones
• 70°C – Applying soft and clear ball ground
• 80°C – Applying hard ball ground.
• 100°C – Quickly drying off stop out varnish/straw hat – however, don’t leave on too long as it will be too difficult to remove afterwards
• 110°C – Dry out the White ground and Fine Aquatint
• 120°C – Drying enamel paint
• 130°C- Drying spray paint aquatint
• 150°C- Melting your rough Rosin Aquatint
• 180°C- Drying out fast varnishes or melting wax quickly to draw with
• All our hotplates come with a 1-year Guarantee plus if you ever need any help with anything we are always on the other end of the phone.